Explore Surrey, one bite at a time
IMAGES BY RICHARD SCHMITZ
Just across our northern border is one of Canada’s fastest-growing cities: Surrey, British Columbia. Surrey is on track to become British Columbia’s largest city by the end of the decade, and to match its booming growth is a burgeoning culinary scene. To showcase the incredible diversity in Surrey’s dining is the Spice Trail, featuring over 750 local restaurants all over the city.
It’s said that the best way to experience a region is through its food. On the Spice Trail, it’s about more than the meal, it’s about the feeling. These dining experiences—just a small sampling of what Surrey has to offer—made us feel right at home. Beyond the plate, we found people sharing their heritage, heart and traditions.
Sesame paneer fingers are Showsaa’s most popular appetizer—creamy, nutty, crunchy with a sweet and spicy sauce—but their sev puri are showstopping. Pani puri (below) is an exercise in layered texture and flavor. The crisp shell should be dipped in spiced water just before eating.
SHOWSHAA: A Regional Journey
We started our journey along the trail with dinner at Showshaa in south Surrey, a restaurant specializing in a captivating fusion of both North and South Indian cuisines. From the moment we stepped in, the wonderful staff treated us to delicious delights from all over the country.
Their signature dish was an appetizer called Sesame Paneer Fingers. It’s easy to see why this has become a fan favorite—the explosion of flavors, from the nutty sesame to the savory-sweet chili sauce, leaves you wanting more with every bite.
We sampled a variety of traditional entrées. We savored paneer masala, a creamy and flavorful North Indian curry featuring cubes of soft paneer cheese in a rich tomato sauce, deeply seasoned with aromatics like ginger, garlic and chilies. Crispy and savory pakora, a popular Indian fritter made with various vegetables—often onions or potatoes—dipped in a spiced chickpea flour batter and deep-fried, was another highlight. We also tried pani puri—also known as golgappa—a beloved street snack of hollow, crispy fried dough balls filled with spiced potatoes, chickpeas and tamarind chutney, then dipped in spiced water just before eating for an explosion of textures and flavors in one bite.
From Delhi, we enjoyed aloo gobi, a classic vegetarian dish combining potatoes and cauliflower florets cooked with onions, tomatoes and a fragrant blend of spices. To experience the juxtaposed flavors of South India, we also had the vegetable Chettinad curry, a fiery and aromatic dish from the Chettinad region, known for its complex spice blend including star anise, fennel and black pepper, cooked in a rich, coconut gravy.
For dessert, we indulged in kulfi falooda, a popular street food similar to ice cream. This delightful treat features a dense, creamy Indian ice cream (kulfi) flavored with cardamom, saffron or pistachios, served with vermicelli noodles (falooda), rose syrup, basil seeds and sometimes nuts or dried fruits. At Showshaa, the recipe comes straight from Chef Bikram Singh’s grandmother. The harmonious blend of textures and temperatures provided a perfect end to our whirlwind food tour of India.
SHOWSAA
3020 152 St #101
Surrey, BC V4P 3N7
showshaa.ca
VANSUYA: A Taste of Nigeria
We resumed the next day with lunch at VanSuya, a Nigerian restaurant. The owner, Ekaose “Eka” Nwadiani, welcomed us warmly, settling us at a table.
We’re vegetarian, so we started with a spicy tomato stew accompanied by fufu, the doughy staple made from pounded cassava and perfect for scooping and soaking up all the flavors of the stew. Alongside, we enjoyed Nwadiani’s smoky beans and sweet plantains, which offered a welcome contrast and helped to offset the heat from the other dishes.
Sipping on a cold glass of zobo, we chatted with Nwadiani about his roots and opening VanSuya. The name comes from a hybrid of “Vancouver” and “Suya”—a popular, spicy meat skewer found throughout Nigeria.
Nwadiani learned to cook from his mother, and many VanSuya dishes are her cherished recipes. His journey to becoming a restaurateur is inspiring—Nwadiani came to Canada as a graduate student and earned his MBA, before deciding to pursue his passion for food. Five years ago, during the COVID-19 pandemic, he began cooking out of his basement. The business expanded into its brick-and-mortar location 2½ years ago, but as we observed during lunchtime, takeout remains incredibly popular. Nwadiani missed homemade food and decided to bring the vibrant flavors of Nigeria to his community.
Bringing community together is important to Nwadiani, as is taking care of those in need. He started the VanSuya Food Bank to help reduce food insecurity in the community. Recently, he began a campaign giving 1,000 free-meal vouchers to those in need.
“Food brings happiness and people together,” says Nwadiani. A shared meal in Nigeria is also a celebration, or “owambe”— a party. Nwadiani clearly has a mind for business, but a heart for social justice. When dining at VanSuya, you can expect bold and vibrant flavors—habanero chili, lending a significant kick, plus pepper, grains of paradise, red curry, smoke and fragrant thyme. In fact, Nwadiani has a sticker on the front counter that boldly reads, “The hotter the better!” setting the expectation of an authentic Nigerian spice experience.
My lips and tongue tingled well after finishing my meal, even though Nwadiani took the spice down a notch for me.
VANSUYA
10767 King George Blvd.
Surrey, BC V3T 2X6
vansuya.com
KIN THAI KITCHEN: A Harmony of Flavors
We returned to South Surrey for dinner at Kin Thai Kitchen.
Thai cooking is famous for its fiery sauces, rich curries and flavorful dips that accompany many dishes owing to the layering of sweet, sour, spicy and salty flavors.
Kin Thai opened eight years ago, and the menu reflects a delightful mix of Thai, Laotian and Vietnamese influences, and a truly homestyle cooking experience. Everything is prepared fresh daily, with a strong emphasis on locally sourced ingredients.
We began with a classic appetizer of crispy spring rolls, perfectly golden and filled with fresh vegetables, served with a sweet and tangy sauce. For our main courses, we savored gaeng kiaw waan, featuring tender vegetables and tofu simmered in a creamy, aromatic green curry paste made with green chilies, lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves, balanced with sweet coconut milk. We also enjoyed the cashew nut stir-fry with tofu, a flavorful and satisfying dish where tofu and crisp vegetables are stir-fried with roasted cashews in a savory sauce, creating a delightful combination of textures and tastes.
KIN THAI KITCHEN + BAR
50-2443 161a St.
Surrey, BC V3Z 0M6
kinthai.ca
ANMOL SWEETS: A Pleasing Interlude
Anmol Sweets is a small store tucked in a busy shopping center, where Indian sweets take center stage and locals gather favored desserts to take home.
We sampled several, including laddu, a spherical sweet often made with chickpea flour and ghee; pinni, a dense, energy-rich sweet crafted with dried fruits, nuts and whole wheat flour; and jalebi, a mesmerizing deep-fried, candied orange ring with a simultaneously crisp and syrupy texture. We also indulged in rich milkcake, a fudgy dessert made from solidified milk; and barfi, a milk-based fudge, topped with crushed pistachios for an added layer of flavor and texture. Anmol Sweets provides a sweet respite on the Spice Trail, showcasing the diverse and intricate world of Indian desserts.
ANMOL SWEETS & RESTAURANT
108 – 8363 128 St.
Surrey, BC V3W 4G1
anmolsweets.com
A NOTE ABOUT VISITING
As a metropolitan area, Surrey is sprawling. Having a car is the best way to fully experience the Spice Trail. We recommend narrowing your search by picking places in advance and avoiding trying to do everything in one day to truly savor each destination. We barely scratched the surface of what Surrey has to offer, but we’ll be back, and we’ll be hungry.