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distilling endess regulations into one glass of milk
BY LAUREL MILLER
PHOTOS BY CAROLE TOPALIAN
Technically, it’s legal, but it’s hard to find outside a big city. Those who live in rural areas can sometimes get it off their neighbors. Others will go to extremes, bypassing the law in order to get theirs. Regardless of how you feel about it—casual user, diehard proponent, or abstainer, it’s a controversial and divisive topic. The substance causing this ruckus? Raw milk.
Few foods ignite more fiery debate than the raw-versus-pasteurized milk issue. For the purposes of this story, the focus is on cow’s milk, which has a higher potential for contamination than that of goat’s or sheep. In the words of one cheesemaker, “Goats are just cleaner. They don’t shit like cows."
Pasteurization of milk is the process of heating it to a specific temperature and period of time, to inactivate (or kill) certain types of rapidly-proliferating bacteria. Pasteurization does not affect slow-growing bacteria or spores—good reason not to chug that half-gallon you accidentally left out overnight.
Google “raw milk” and you’ll turn up sites spewing zealotry, conspiracy theory, and misinformation on both sides. Purists and those with specific health or religious beliefs demand the right to drink it, while the government imposes strict regulations upon its production, sale, and usage. Small-scale farmers are caught in the middle of this war zone, torn between selling an in-demand and profitable product with high risk factors, or foregoing the hassle in order to protect their assets.
In King County, the sale of raw milk is legal, if producers meet code requirements. Sea Breeze Farm sells raw milk for eight dollars a half-gallon through Central Co-op’s Madison Market (it’s also available at La Boucherie and Minglement on Vashon Island, and at several farmer’s markets year-round), while Bellingham’s Jackie’s Jersey Milk retails for $5.99 a half-gallon at PCC.
Does it do a body good?
Raw milk enthusiasts claim it tastes better, is more digestible, and helps boost human immune systems. Studies have shown that up to sixty percent of adults are lactose intolerant, and attribute the ability to digest milk--raw or pasteurized--as a Northern European genetic mutation now known as “lactase persistence.”
Those suffering from lactose intolerance (this writer included) don’t produce lactase, the enzyme responsible for breaking down lactose, the main sugar in milk, which results in varying symptoms of gastrointestinal distress.
Many of those with lactose intolerance, however, anecdotally report being able to consume raw milk with no ill effects (this writer included), and a University of Michigan study points to the veracity of this theory. While lactase is not present in raw milk, there is increasing belief, in the words of Mark McAfee of California’s Organic Pastures organic raw milk dairy, that “the friendly bacteria in raw milk facilitate the creation of lactase in the [human] intestine, where it is needed [for proper absorption].”
Some culinary professionals and cheesemakers are also raw milk advocates, as they believe pasteurization destroys the beneficial bacteria and enzymes that lend flavor and complexity to dairy products. That said, many cheesemakers will also tell you that most people can’t taste the difference between cheese made with raw, unheated milk, and those made with pasteurized milk. Non-aged raw milk cheeses are considered “potentially hazardous” and must be made from pasteurized milk, although the processing regulations vary from state to state.
The Official Risks
The FDA cites raw milk as an “inherently dangerous” product. “The issue,” says Christopher Skilton, Health and Environmental Investigator for King County’s Department of Public Health and former manager of a cheese plant in Fife, “is bacterial contamination. Raw milk can support the rapid and progressive growth of pathogenic bacteria such as E. coli, listeria, multi-drug resistant salmonella, and campylobacter.” Certain zoonotic diseases—those that can be transmitted from animal to human—can also be passed on in raw milk, including Q Fever (Coxiella burnetii infection), brucellosis, and tuberculosis. Washington requires milking dairy animals to be tested for Q Fever, while the USDA enforces testing for TB and brucellosis.
Listeria is environmentally ubiquitous, occurring naturally; E. coli (which is more frequently associated with contaminated produce and meat) not necessarily so. If certain sanitation standards are met, the risk of those bacteria being transmitted by raw milk is reduced. The goal of the government at all levels is to “protect those who cannot make an informed choice, i.e. children,” says Skilton. Raw milk can also be a hazard to pregnant women, the elderly, and those with compromised immune systems.
In 2008 King County had nearly a dozen reported cases of listeria requiring hospitalization, and one fatality—as compared with an annual average of three to 10 cases in years prior. The culprit is believed to be queso fresco purchased by victims from a door-to-door salesperson.
Explains Skilton, “The rash of cases that occurred within the Hispanic community are believed to have stemmed from a home producer. It’s not malicious intent; it’s lack of education in regard to sanitation, often paired with economic desperation. The same thing could happen in a factory that cuts corners to lower costs. Periodic health department inspections reduce the risk to the public.”
Skilton does, however, agree when asked if the public has a false sense of security when it comes to government regulations. “I’m not damning my profession, but the reality is that monitoring food safety is all about contact: Inspecting, consulting, education. It’s also about behavioral change—restaurants, for example. In order to protect the public, I have to convince employees to do the right thing when I’m not there, and create an awareness of why these rules are in place. It’s all about risk reduction, but anyone who thinks you can eliminate risk is living in a dream world.”
“The government has to draw a line somewhere around the issue of food safety, and no matter where that is, it’s going to include some foods that are not hazardous because of the legal language involved. This is why food packaging often carries specific warnings and instructions, and why King County requires menu statements,” Skilton explains, adding, “Personally, I want to be able to eat adventurous, interesting food, and as a competent adult, I am fortunate to be able to make those kinds of choices.”
George Page from Sea Breeze Farm begs to differ with the FDA. “The idea that raw milk is “inherently dangerous” is what we refer to on the farm as “bullshit”. It’s as dangerous as its source. If its source is healthy and clean, it’s significantly less dangerous than, say, salad greens. Raw milk from a high quality, grass-based, responsibly farmed dairy is one of the healthiest, most nutritious foods available. I would strongly discourage the consumption of milk from typical industrial dairies, and even many large “family” dairies, whether it is raw or pasteurized.”
Know your Producer
Kurt Timmermeister, a former Seattle restaurateur-turned-pasteurized-cheesemaker, owns the tiny Kurtwood Dairy on Vashon Island. Until June of 2009, he was selling raw milk to Vashon groceries, coffee houses, and customer-direct because, he explains, “There’s a small supply and huge demand, and it’s a good product—I drink it.”
What made Timmermeister pull the plug on his raw milk operation was, quite simply, fear for public safety.
“My goal is to sell people something good to eat, not get them sick, even with the best of intentions and precautionary measures,” he says. “You can’t deny it’s not an inherently dangerous product. I didn’t think people would get sick from drinking my milk, but I also asked them to keep it cold, handle it properly, and not give it to children or those at risk. But people want it for their kids, because they think it’s more pure. I’ve watched customers put it in the back of a hot car while they run errands—it gave me chills. This farm means too much to me. If you know the farmer and you’ve seen the animals and dairy, then I think it’s an acceptable risk for healthy adults. But if a producer won’t answer your questions or let you visit, that’s a bad sign.”
“You need to have a relationship with your producer,” echoes Matt Day, co-owner of Mt. Townsend Creamery. “So you can ask them questions. I also believe that when you deal with a local producer, there’s more accountability there. I see my customers every day. They are friends and neighbors and that connection drives a strong sense of obligation to ensure we’re providing them with a safe, quality product.”
Day and his business partner Ryan Trail produce pasteurized artisan cheese from raw milk sourced from Dungeness Valley Creamery and Maple View Dairy in Sequim. Inasmuch as Day is a supporter of raw milk, he says, “We chose to pasteurize as an operational decision. Two of our three main soft cheeses have a shelf life of less than 60 days, so they’re pasteurized. It’s also easier to make all raw or not, because you can be more consistent in your production and not have to worry about cross-contamination.”
He is quick to point out that “The fact that a product is pasteurized doesn’t guarantee its safety—the health inspector can’t be there 24/7. It comes down to how well the different handlers do their job, and maintain vigilance in managing their processes and facility. There are plenty of opportunities for contamination later in production that can impact both pasteurized and raw product. That’s why all producers need to be serious about their safety programs.”
Adds Skilton, “Knowing your producer goes hand in hand with them having a duty to educate and protect the public. We all deserve safe food, whether we’re in a homeless shelter, or a high-end restaurant.”
Laurel Miller is a food/travel writer and cooking instructor who recently relocated to Seattle. She is not lactose persistent, but has found that she can consume raw milk with no ill effect. She is also contributing editor of culture magazine. For more information on Laurel, go to www.sustainablekitchen.com ®.
For more information about raw milk regulations, click here.
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