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Sidebar: A FIELD GUIDE TO BEAN PASTE

A confection made of beans and sugar, anko or an is a key component of many Japanese sweets. Most anko recipes call for at least equal parts sugar and beans; some are even sweeter. Oki uses as little sugar as possible: “I actually find that people like it better because it isn’t as sweet and they taste the beans a lot better.”  He’s even heard it said that his anko tastse more like Sagamiya’s. Anko is often described as jam or fudge; it's a versatile filling and topping.  

Tsubuan: Whole azuki beans that have been boiled in sugar; a popular topping for chilled summer desserts. 
Koshian:  A puree of azuki beans and sugar; all the skins are removed to leave it perfectly smooth.
Shiroan:  Made from lima beans, this creamy white anko has a velvety texture and a mild flavor.  A great starting point for first-time anko eaters.
Nerikiri:
A blend of shiroan and sieved yam that can be tinted and sculpted into decorative forms and is particularly popular for tea ceremony sweets.
Tsubushian:  For this chunky paste, a portion of azuki beans are set aside when their skins are tender but unsplit, then added back in once the rest of the batch has been mashed and strained. 

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